To train or not to train -- indoors.  

I'm a hot weather rider and am stuck inside during winter.  Here's a perspective on the different aspects of that trainer you have in your den (right?):

Cycling to work was studied recently and the conclusion was a lower risk of dying WHEN COMPARED TO walking to work or taking transportation.

Check it out.

Getting faster ... 

Those new to cycling are sometimes enamored with getting faster ... to keep up with their newfound teammates.  That makes a lot of sense.  But how to get there without getting hurt?

One must get stronger in order to ride faster, particularly over longer distances.  The best cure for getting stronger is riding as much as possible (not as long as possible).  Cycling every day will do more for your stamina and strength than about anything else.  The more you ride ... the more you can ride.  You'll get faster and be able to go further.

Getting faster is somewhat a mental game too.  The more you think about it the harder it is.  Be aware that every day you go out on your bike, your body is not the same as yesterday or the day before.  You'll have some days where you ride strong, others not so much.  Mentally you start to wonder about those "bad days" ... and I say "don't let it bother you."  It happens.

Another key to getting faster is to ride solo more than 50% of the time and DO NOT look at your speed.  Concentrate on cadence and let your legs give you whatever they have for that day.  Doing this many days in a row will provide surprising results -- you will get faster.

Now get out there and pedal!

Cycling in weather -- like rain, snow, fog -- is usually not fun.  But you have to be prepared for it.  And you need to ensure your bike recovers from it.

The weather can take a huge toll on not only yourself but your bike as well.  It is vitally important that you provide the appropriate attention to your bike after a weather event. 

Specifically, your drive-train should be rinsed and re-lubricated appropriately.  Your derailers likewise.  Your chainring and bottom bracket likewise.  Your breaking mechanisms likewise.

Yes, pay attention to your whole bicycle.  Keep it clean and functioning to ensure your next excursion is as worry free as possible.

A properly functioning dual pace line will be a joy ... this one is moving along at 20.5 mph.

To white line or not ...

More on pace lines
Should you ride the white line or stay to left of it or to the right?

If it's wet, never ride the painted lines.

If there is as much as 2ft or more to the right, then ride to the right of it.

Otherwise, ride where it is the smoothest!  A smooth ride for the pace line is always preferable than worrying about anything else.  The lead of the pace line needs to pick out the smoothest path forward.  Always.

What if you're #2 in line ...

More on pace lines
If you're next up to pull the line there are a few things to keep in mind:

• Note the current speed -- and keep it when you get up front.
• You've not been pulling so the draft has made your task easier -- don't outrun the cyclists moving off the front.
• You're actually better able to see things further ahead than the lead; call out obstacles like car-up, dog-right.
• If it's time for your swig, take it now; don't wait until you're up front.
• Keep an even pace with the lead.  Don't let the slinky effect begin with you!  The rest of the pace line will never recover outside of dropping back and establishing their own pace line.
• If able due to mirrors, keep an eye on those behind you and warn the lead if you're dropping others.
• Prepare yourself for taking the lead; guess about where the current lead will come off and mentally prepare yourself for a smooth, consistent turnover at the front.
• Review the cue sheet.  You're about to lead the group and most everyone behind you is counting on you to call out the next turn.
• If you're in a double pace line and know the other cyclist is stronger than you, let them know what you're comfortable doing (i.e. how long you'll be up front).
• If in a double pace line the left-most #2 cyclist is in the most vulnerable position as the leaders transition off to the left.  As the right-most lead moves left, if the left-most #2 will move slightly right (to the middle of the road), then the transition will go quicker, smoother, and safer.  Remember, the leads are likely tired after a good pull and may be a little more erratic than usual.
• If you're in a higher-level group than you usually ride with (e.g. moved up to 18 group), then you've likely figured out that the 18 group will ride at 19.5 to 20 in a pace line in order to average 18 over the length of the ride.  This may be a lot for you.  In these cases, see if you can stay on front for 1 min and then peel off.  The mental prep for this as you are #2 in line is key.  A minute should be doable.  Be ready.

Taking a sip in-line ...

More on pace line etiquette
When partaking of your water bottle, please keep in mind the following:

• if you're not the last one on the pace line, keep your actions very smooth as to not alarm the remaining cyclists.
• Where to look?
  • Ahead as you were before starting to grab your bottle.
  • Don't look at the bottle, the cage, anything else other than ahead.
  • If you can't look ahead and deal with your bottle, then don't attempt to until you're the last one on the pace line.
• Those behind you worry that
  • you'll drop your bottle.
  • you'll swerve around trying to get the top open.
  • you'll swerve around trying to get the bottle back in the cage.
  • they'll get splashed.
  • you'll slow down causing the dreaded slinky effect on the pace line.
• Which hand?
  • Right hand -- to keep your left hand on the hoods for slowing if needed.
  • Hold the bottle out slightly to the right of your body so those behind you know what you're about to do.  This provides a bit of extra caution on their part (e.g. they may back off a foot or so from your rear wheel).
  • Hold the bottle out slightly to the right of your body when you're ready to return it to the cage -- same reasoning as above.  Everyone nearby should be vigilant about your actions.
  • Don't let go of the bottle when putting it back into the cage until you KNOW the bottle is back in the cage.  This takes a little practice.  Practice on your solo training rides, not during pace line cycling!
  • Left hand --- caress the handle bars at the hoods (fingers readily available for braking) lightly, not tightly.  Rigidly holding the hoods can cause an accident if you hit a rock or other obstacle.  Usually when above 16 mph and you hit something the front wheel will auto-correct its alignment (i.e. keep going the way it was going).  It is more difficult for the wheel to auto-correct if you're rigidly holding the hoods.

Pacelines ... on the front

Do's:

• Constant pace
• Don't coast (stop pedaling); you'll initiate the slinky effect in a long paceline
• Safety ... identify anything in the road that may cause an issue
• Come off to your left
• Spend enough time in the front only if comfortable

Dont's:

• Stay too long - 3 min or 1 mile is a good pull
• swerve around
• fiddle with your water bottle or other accessories
• miss a turn
• take off after a turn, wait for the end of the line to be "all on" before resuming previous speed